Analysis of Vivienne Westwood's Cafe Society
The Ask
Choose a fashion collection and analyze the historical context or references that influenced its design, examining how these elements are integrated into the collection's themes, aesthetics, and overall message.
Skills
Research
Visual Design
Fashion Analysis
Organization
Communication
Writing
The Process
The first part of my process was selecting a collection and identifying the historical references within it. I chose Vivienne Westwood's 1994 "Cafe Society" collection because it mixed both historical influences and modern interpretations in a unique and provocative way. Westwood's ability to blend fashion from different time periods with contemporary elements intrigued me, making it the perfect subject for analysis. I wanted to explore how she used historical references, such as Victorian and Edwardian fashion, while also creating a controversial, hyper-sexualized narrative that pushed boundaries and sparked conversation.
Historical Influences
Next, I examined specific elements in the collection that referenced these historical periods. I focused on features like corsets, bustles, lace, and tassels, as well as the hypersexualized components that were central to the collection. By identifying these elements, I was able to connect them to the historical references Westwood was drawing from and understand how she modernized them in her designs. One of the key inspirations in the collection was Charles Frederick Worth, the founder of French haute couture in the mid to late 1800s. This influence can be seen in many of the dresses in the collection, where Westwood incorporates the traditional elements of Worth’s designs while adding a contemporary twist.
One of the most notable pieces in the collection is the "mini-crini," an adaptation of the crinoline, worn by model Kate Moss. This piece is a prominent example of how Vivienne Westwood reimagines historical references, blending them with modern elements. Westwood herself described the "mini-crini" as representing “a mythology of restriction and encumbrance in women’s dress” while also embodying “an equally dubious mythology of liberation.” This duality is evident throughout the entire collection, where traditional silhouettes are reworked with contemporary twists. For example, Moss wears a pastel purple hat that references Napoleon, but with a modern, playful update. Additionally, Moss’s toplessness in the look plays into Westwood's use of sexuality, contrasting sharply with the more restrained styles of the past, and emphasizing the tension between historical fashion and a more liberated, provocative vision for women’s clothing.
Look 23 Paris Grand Hotel (1994)
Look 75 Paris Grand Hotel (1994)
The Outcome
Vivienne Westwood’s 1994 "Cafe Society" collection was a deeper understanding of how the designer used historical references to create a provocative and modern narrative. By examining specific elements like corsets, bustles, lace, and Westwood’s play on sexuality, I was able to see how she honored the traditions of the Victorian, Edwardian, and French haute couture eras while simultaneously challenging them. Through her reinterpretation of these historical elements, Westwood blurred the lines between restriction and liberation, creating a collection that was both a homage to the past and a bold statement on contemporary fashion. This analysis helped me appreciate how historical context can be reimagined to produce fresh, dynamic designs that provoke conversation and challenge societal norms.